The end of the world

I guess we all share a fascination for the sea. And to actually arrive there on foot is even a more special feeling. Moreover when it’s at the so-called “end of the world” – Cape Finisterre. And even more when you’re watching the sunset there, share a good wine and have a good time together…

Hey there

Well a few days have passed since my last post. I was busy enjoying Madrid, returning home and starting work again a few days ago.
So much about the bad news. Camino Francés over for me. And now lets get to the good news: This doesn’t mean my blog’s finished here.
Nope, noooo…of course I just don’t give up blogging so easily. First thing I’ll do after this post is working a bit through my older posts and making them nicer to read. Then I’ll give you some insight about my time in Madrid. Not that camino-like but as you may have read before the Camino never ends in Santiago. It lead me right on to Madrid and afterwards to the Way of St. James in Switzerland. My country. Of course I can’t stop walking…once you’re addicted to it you have to keep on doing it. Many pictures awaiting you from lovely Swiss landscapes 🙂

But now back to the topic.

My walk to Fisterra
I got up around 7.30am and took a short breakfast in the albergue before setting off about half an hour later. It had gotten quite foggy overnight and I was slightly worried because my most beloved fellow pilgrim John had decided to sleep outside and wait for me on the side of the street. I kind of wondered if he even managed to sleep and guessed he might eventually just have walked on. Forget about sleeping outside when you don’t have the equipment. Because everything starts getting damp overnight and thus doesn’t allow you a healthy sleep.

So I set off and kept on looking to the left and right in fear I might actually miss a frozen-to-the-bone pilgrim on the side of the street. I didn’t see very far…but this landscape wrapped in fog was really beautiful!

About one hour later the fog had already gone and it was clear blue sky. I still hadn’t found John and decided to believe he had just walked on directly to Fisterra.

I now passed by many wind turbines. Picture time. I simply am a fan of them and think they actually look really nice. Why oh why does Switzerland not build more of them?? They say it’s bad for the environment. But if you ask me nuclear plants are worse…and much less beautiful as well!

That day I ran into a Swiss guy who had walked all the way from Switzerland to Santiago and now was on the way to Fisterra as well. I was fascinated. One day I’ll do that as well! But he was actually really happy that he was just walking his last day. After walking about 3000km…I really believed him.

The landscape was changing more and more and it became visible that we were getting closer to the ocean. No oak trees anymore but pines instead.

And then a few kilometers after Hospital de Logoso the first sight of the ocean. Wow. After having walked all across northern Spain that feeling was pretty cool. And the view as well of course!

We then walked over some sort of a plateau which was quite bare even though it wasn’t that high up. The landscape, again, was very nice though.

After some time the ocean was visible again and the Camino started to descend towards Cée. Hard time for the knees as it was leading downwards quiet steeply and in an uneven terrain.

And then I was already walking into Cée. I had slowed down with my pace because the Swiss guy was walking very fast and I wanted to take it easy on my knees.

The Camino through Cée is quite irritating. You’re actually supposed to walk down to the beach and then find back to the Camino after the hospital there. But some of the arrows in the city are showing into a different direction, causing many pilgrims to stray around in desperate search of the right way. Same with me. When I finally found out where I had to walk out of the city, I first took a lunch break – pulpo – and then continued walking. As it seemed the Swiss guy had had the same idea and so I ran into him again while walking out of Cée.

We were walking towards Fisterra without too much of another interruption, first wandering uphill giving us a great view over the shore and later a sweet little bay…

…and then walking down and along the beach until Fisterra.

Here I made the bad decision to not jump into the water directly because I wanted to arrive and thought I could still do that the next day. How wrong I was! Because it started raining in the night and forecasts predicted rain for the whole week!

I found John in the albergue Cabo da Vega. He really hadn’t been able to sleep and then walked on through the whole night about 80km to Fisterra, even losing his way in the night and then finding back on track after several kilometers. Wow…that was really crazy! Of course we decided not to walk to the Cape but to take a taxi instead together with a Swiss and a German pilgrim. This also made it easier to carry my Guitalele there. When it’s not tied to the backpack I can’t carry it on my back.

Reaching the end of the world and singing there
We had decided to watch the sunset at Cape Finisterre. Its a custom to also burn something worn through the whole pilgrimage. I wanted to play my music during the sundown and my fellow pilgrims brought wine and chips to go with it. But first I had to take a few shots of the surroundings and of course the 0km mark.

I really felt like having arrived at the end of the world. One step too much and you fall down into nothing!

There was a great atmosphere at the Cape. Pilgrims were sitting together in groups, burning something, sipping wine and having a good talk.

And then I started singing…all into the night. It was really cool and I got nice reactions. Thank you all for listening and for your very nice feedbacks. That keeps me going!

I actually had wanted to stay in Fisterra for one more day and then to continue walking to Muxia. But due to the rain which was predicted to last for 4 (!) days I changed my mind and returned to Madrid the next day. Thus my Camino as such came to an end sooner than I had thought and a new era started. I went back into city life. But Madrid is really nice!

Thanks a lot for reading my blog. Visite my site again to see how the posts will get nicer during the next days and to read a little something about Madrid and later about the Way of St. James in Switzerland.

See you and cheers!

About Miriam

I am a traveller. Not in the fast sense. I am travelling on foot, as a pilgrim. And I love writing and playing music. Since I found back to singing and writing while walking the Way of St. James in Spain, I started mingling the two. Means I am walking with my little guitalele and playing whenever the situation seems right for it :-)
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